The Island That’s Too Good To Be True

Ian Sclanders called Grand Manan -“The Island That's Too Good To Be True” in his article for the Oct 1953 Issue of MACLEAN’s Magazine. This title encapsulates exactly how I feel today about this enchanting little island in the Bay of Fundy.

That’s Grand Manan For You!

Grand Manan brings to mind a simpler time with an unhurried pace - frozen in time almost - where everyone greets you warmly, and treats you like family. In fact, on our first night, a friend of a friend showed up on our cottage rental doorstep with groceries, including a very large bag of scallops. “Just heard you were on the island, and thought you might enjoy these,” Dwain Brown graciously offered. I was gobsmacked at this gesture, and my traveling partner Susan Hill, the Executive Director of Charlotte Coastal Region, laughed at my reaction and said, “That’s Grand Manan for you!” And so it began. I saw people go out of their way to welcome us into their homes & businesses, offering whatever they could to ensure we had a wonderful visit. Susan kept reassuring me, “This is what everyone does for each other over here. It’s the norm.”

Grand Manan

Grand Manan, I think I owe you an apology. You see, I am embarrassed to say it has been over 30 years since I last visited you. And now, I keep asking myself, “Why?” Grand Manan is not a one-visit-will-do kinda place and it is right here - a stone’s throw away from mainland New Brunswick. The ferry ride is inexpensive, and there is so much to do. Now after 4 recent visits over two summers (spanning a total of 10 days - exploring from dawn-to-dusk), I still have a long list of things I want to see & do for next time. I can promise you this Grand Manan, I will be back - again, and again, and again, and again. I have found an island and people - that are too good to be true - but it is, and they are.

Whale Watching

Even the marine life is friendly here. Playful porpoises jumped in the waves right next to our zodiac boat, seals swam nearby, and humpbacks & minke whales seemed to come to us. When back at the North Head Fishermans Wharf, I asked Captain Matt, owner of Lambert Family Adventures, if this ever gets old for him and how this 2-hour whale watching expedition compared to most. He grinned & replied, “This was a good day!” Indeed it was Matt! Check out my video reels on my Maritimes Maven Instagram account to see amazing live footage. Tours occur several times a day from the beginning of July to the end of September. Go with Matt, or with one of the other whale watching companies. Just go. It is so much fun!

A Haven for Whales, Porpoises, Seals, and Seabirds

The waters around Grand Manan are a haven for whales, porpoises, seals, and seabirds. It is a rich natural habitat. Sightings of “Old Tom,” an orca who makes an appearance every year, was piquing excitement on our way out whale watching. We also met a shark tagging boat on the bay. Keep an eye on the waters everywhere when on the island, but especially while crossing the ferry and at lighthouse lookouts. You never know when a marine creature might make an appearance. Seabirds, like puffins, are also a popular attraction here and tours book up often a year in advance. I was lucky enough to secure a spot in 2023 on The Puffin Tour at Machias Seal Island with SeaWatch Tours. It was a bucket list experience that I will not soon forget. I highly recommend everyone do this at least once in their lifetime.

Swallowtail Lighthouse

Swallowtail Lighthouse is still an active navigational aid. I descended the 54 stone steps, and traversed the wooden footbridge, then sat on a bench near the lighthouse, and watched kayakers paddling on the still waters. Then, almost like magic, the ferry emerged from a cloak of mist. On a clear day, the sweeping majestic vistas from this site are spectacular. The view from the ferry coming & going from the island is lovely when you pass here, so go out on the deck until you round the corner at the lighthouse. While on land, stop into the gift shop to pick up a local keepsake, and learn more about the lighthouse & surrounding area. All proceeds go towards the continued restoration & operation of the lighthouse.

Hole in the Wall and Seven Days’ Work

Hole in the Wall rock arch, a wave-carved hole in a cliff, is just a short hike away. Follow the trails marked by blotches of red paint on the trees & rocks and watch your footing. This is a moderately challenging hike, but there is a big reward at the end. There are several treats along the way, often including seal sightings. We watched three swimming around a herring weir, which in itself is a gem, as are the views of the Bay of Fundy, and the Seven Days’ Work (seven interesting layers of volcanic lava piled upon each other). View it across the bay from the Hole in the Wall arch. Keep an eye out for the ferry from this viewpoint. If you are lucky, you may even see a whale, too. North Head Campground has 20 serviced sites in this area.

North Head

North Head is chock-full of delights including great coffee & light meals at Old Wellhouse Café. It is a licenced café so enjoy a craft brew on the deck with a great view of the wharf. When a warmer drink is desired, try the lattes - they are superb. If you crave NY-style hand-tossed pizza, the Post Office Pizza should be your destination, and do not miss high tea at The Seaquel Family Restaurant. Explore via an eBike now through the fleet of offerings at Grand Manan Island Bikes. Bike the shorelines, chase lighthouses, or hit the many trails to discover the island’s many scenic views.

Grand Manan Whale and Seabird Research Station

The Grand Manan Whale and Seabird Research Station is conveniently located right in North Head with displays of whales, seals, seabirds, fish, sharks, and invertebrates. Information on conservation efforts to protect the endangered right whale, and the Harbour Porpoise Release Program is available and there are hands-on activities to inform & educate the public.

Pettes Cove Arts

Pettes Cove Arts is a quaint gift shop in North Head with over 40 different local island artisans represented. I purchased a sweet hand-carved driftwood whale here. I was tempted by many items in this shop, and I will always make time to pop into Sue’s place. Make sure you do, too!

Marathon Inn

Marathon Inn is a historic inn that was built in 1871 by retired sea captain, James Pettes. It is listed as one of the 12 most haunted hotels in Canada by Haunted Rooms America. Antiques adorn the interior and breakfast is offered with your stay. The building is definitely showing its age from the exterior, and I have not personally stayed here in over 30 years, although, the Europeans that I spent time with on the island told me they absolutely loved the Inn’s charm and the owner’s hospitality. Do you dare book a stay? It looks deliciously scary.

SeaCliff Cottage

Find SeaCliff Cottage in North Head. It has 3 cozy suites on site, each with its own private deck. Susan and I stayed in the one-bedroom Sea Glass Suite. It has a fully-equipped kitchen, a queen-size bed, and a futon pullout, and much appreciated High-Speed Internet (which can be challenging in some spots on the island). Owners Debbie & Les, are incredible hosts and they even took us out on a great hike our last morning (more on this later).

Creekside Cottage

Debbie & Les (Seacliff Cottage) have yet another spot you can enjoy in North Head for a stay and that we did on another visit to Grand Manan. This sweet little one-bedroom cottage (with a pull-out sofa-bed) is another option that is ideally-situated to explore the island’s gems. It is on a private & quiet secluded lane in the woods.

Compass Rose

Compass Rose is another popular accommodation in North Head and they are open year-round. Breakfast is included and there is a restaurant on-site which offers dinner 7 nights a week over the summer (weekends only in early June and late September). The only thing better than their signature Rhubarb Punch cocktail (with a kick) and the Seafood Fettucine was getting to stay the night in this historic inn, too! The foghorn heard in the distance as the ferry came & went was enchanting.

The Whistle

The Long Eddy Point Lighthouse, aka “The Whistle,” (aptly named by locals because it was first a steam fog whistle - later replaced in 1905 by a more traditional foghorn), sits at the remote edge of rocky cliffs on the tip of the island. It is popular for its scenic views, as well as being a key whale spotting and birdwatching spot. Many islanders insist the best island sunsets are witnessed here. Dwain being one, so Susan brought me here to find out for myself. Others claim Dark Harbour and Southern Head are strong contenders. This an ongoing friendly debate with islanders. Just ask… if you dare.

Sunset Views

Within a few minutes of us arriving, Susan got a message from Dwain - that we should wander down the path to the lower viewing area. There we found a small group of men enjoying a tailgate sunset viewing. Joined by Dwain was his brother Dana, his friend Stuart and Stuart’s uncle Arthur, and Caleb - Stuart’s youngest sister’s boy and Randy, who is married to Stuart’s oldest sister. Dwain ensured I got all the deets of who I was meeting. I was greeted like I grew up here. I discovered they all live on the road leading to the lighthouse, and they gather here often. They were all dressed up in pressed shirts and dress trousers and someone alluded to me (while winking) that they always do this for the sunset. Then another confessed they had just paid their respects at a funeral. It was great fun chatting to this group, and hearing them tease each other like school boys, but I could tell they were the kind of friends that had each others’ backs - no matter what. I mentioned that to Susan later, and she agreed, but added each one of them would do anything - for anyone - anywhere on the island. “That’s just what people are like here,” she reminded me. I was starting to understand the people on Grand Manan, are a big part of what is so special about this place.

Presence Boutique

Susan & I met Darlene, owner of Presence Boutique on 27 Dock Road, and fell in love with her positive energy and holistic self-care gift shop that also carries a wide section of gift ideas including jewelry and island-made treasures.

Park Place Retreat

Hunter Park, the owner of Park Place Retreat gave me a tour of his geodesic dome accommodation with a view of the ocean. This luxurious dome is high on my wish list for a stay. I am already dreaming of future sunrises & sunsets here from the campfire pit. Check out my video reel post on Park Place Retreat on my Maritimes Maven Instagram account. Park Place Retreat books quickly, so reserve early. Save me a spot, Hunter!

Grand Manan Art Gallery

The Grand Manan Art Gallery is a seasonal art gallery, featuring local & visiting artists with a connection to Grand Manan Island. Housed in a former church, this non-profit local gallery is a hidden gem. Exhibitions are ongoing and the gallery is wheelchair accessible. Artwork is for sale at bargain prices, compared to what I am used to on the mainland.

Castalia Marsh

Castalia Marsh is a salt water wetland marsh and beach, popular for hiking, birdwatching, and picnicking. Arctic Terns, Northern Gannets, Razorbills, Sooty Shearwaters, Atlantic Puffins, and Northern Fulmars have all been sighted here. Harbour and Grey seals often swim off the beach at high tide and hang out on the rocks at low tide.

Castalia Marsh Retreat

Find hand-crafted eco-friendly cabins at Castalia Marsh Retreat. These unique accomodations are tucked in the woods overlooking the marsh and ocean, and have been described as an artist’s paradise, a writer’s retreat, a birder’s delight, and a hiker’s heaven. If staying in a yurt, barn cabin, or birdhouse loft is your cup of tea, then this is for you. I walked around the 7-acre site and it looked like a movie set for “The Hobbit.” It’s quirky & fun, and the campers I met told me they love it here, and return year after year.

Retire to Grand Manan

There were so many pretty homes & cottages on the island that continually caught my eye while I was driving. Many folks first choose to make Grand Manan their home for the summer, then it grows into their home for a season (or two), then next thing you know - they have retired & moved here permanently. The more I explore this rugged, beautiful, serene island, the more I understand why.

Treasure Hunters

The island is full of treasures and treasure hunters. Susan & I met Isla Griffin, a young entrepreneur at her roadside “Lemonade, Freezies, and Seaglass” stand. She told me she’s been collecting “since she was two.” We shared fond seaglass stories, and both Susan & I went away with a freezie each and a handful of new seaglass treasures.

Dark Harbour

Dark Harbour is one of the most unusual destinations to discover in Grand Manan, and I believe one of the only areas on the island’s west coast that is accessible by car. Visit at low tide as the beach & road, are almost completely submerged at high tide. The staggering 100-metre high cliffs make for a dramatic descent into this area, and from the look of the graffiti, this is a popular place with younger islanders. Definitely off the beaten path, this is a spot you have to see. You will find a natural harbour, a sea wall created by the waves, camps perched on the edge of the tide line, and fishing boats tethered to the shore with weighted rock-filled lobster traps. This is a fascinating place to explore, and downright eerie in the fog. The sunsets are said to be pretty amazing here, too. I hope to find out one day.

Dulse Farming

World famous “Dark Harbour Dulse" is hand-picked along the west coast of Grand Manan. I discovered these “dulsers” are hard-working harvesters. It is no easy feat collecting dulse - that is a whole story in itself. After the arduous taste of harvesting, the sea vegetable is laid out to drain and cure, in the sun on a net over a bed of rocks. Once the top of the dulse is dried, the sheets are rolled up and flipped over, so the other side can dry. “It’s an acquired taste,” this edible, dried, red seaweed. Some like it in a DLT (dulse, lettuce & tomato sandwich). Some eat it like chips & dip with ranch sauce. Personally, it is not for me, but how about you? Do you love dulse? If you do, are you in the “soft” camp or “crispy” camp? Apparently this is another island debate.

Sunrise Seafood & Woodwards Cove

Sunrise Seafood is a locally-owned and operated fish market and seafood take-out restaurant. It is open daily from May until the first week in September. This is very popular with locals, and visitors alike for lobster rolls, fried clams, and scallops. You can also purchase fresh and smoked fish. It is located in Woodwards Cove, a former fishing community that became part of the village of Grand Manan. Lineups were long, so I didn’t get a chance to try the restaurant, but it is one of the most popular on the island so it is on my ‘next time’ list. I ended up walking around the cove, and it is a wonderful photographer’s muse.

Turning Tides Cottages

I loved our funky 2-bedroom sunset ocean beachfront accommodations at Turning Tides Cottages in Grand Harbour. It even came with our own s’mores kit to enjoy a sunset campfire. Enjoy a modern, comfortable stay with great wifi connectivity and incredible views.

Marina Vern Pottery

Marina Vern Pottery Studio Gift Shop and Pottery can also be found in Grand Harbour. Marina is an extremely talented potter. She showed me around her shop, and I was in awe of her display case of pottery shoes. They showcase her sublime talent for handmade visual art. The lace shoe bud vase below was my favourite. Pop in to see Marina’s beautiful pottery, and find a keepsake bowl, mug or decorative piece for home.

Newton’s Mercantile & Café

Newton’s Mercantile & Café is a beautifully curated giftware shop, as well as a great spot to grab lunch in Grand Harbour. Look up immediately to check out the tin ceilings and down to their hardwood floors. The original 1915 Newton’s store was on Ross Island before being floated to its present location. Enjoy handcrafted artisanal espresso drinks & homemade sandwiches and salads, pastries, and sweets. The mocha coffees are divine as are the raspberry squares. This is the largest gift shop on the island, and there is a nice deck out back. Directly across the street is their new sister shop, The Studio by Newtons, Grand Manan’s hub for creatives, features on-going make & take workshops and a supplies store that DIYers will love.

Grand Manan Museum

The Grand Manan Museum is centrally-located in Grand Harbour. The artworks, artifacts, collections, and exhibits on display here are impressive. The Shipwrecks Gallery and the six-wall mural display is truly spectacular. This is a “Living Reflection of Island History” and should not be missed. Twice weekly evening presentations throughout July-August, special events, and new exhibits yearly, complement the more than 18 permanent galleries. Make time to take in this outstanding museum.

MG Fisheries Ltd & TRAPPED Deck

MG Fisheries and TRAPPED Deck is a licensed patio that offers hot lobster & spinach dips, lobster rolls, smoothies, wine, beer, and soft drinks. The lobster trap decor is captivating. There is a great vibe here, and if you are looking to catch a light bite and drink, they will have you trapped. They drew me in at the giant people trap entrance, but they caught me with the yummy lobster rolls made with freshly baked homemade rolls (grandma’s family recipe).

Trapped

The TRAPPED clothing flagship store offers colourfully branded clothing, towels, souvenirs as well as fishing gear, and apparel for local fishermen. Discover the real Grand Manan here. Locals love it as much as visitors. Their motto says it all: “It’s where we live, it’s what we do”.

Anchorage Provincial Park

The Anchorage Provincial Park boasts natural attractions, and breathtaking scenery. We walked the trails, and wandered around the dunes and ponds, picnic areas, and strolled the massive sandy beach. The Anchorage Provincial Park is the ultimate camping destination. Camping sites are generous, and there is a range of camping options, including tent cabins for rent. Keep an eye out for the adorable bunnies in the area, too.

Seal Cove

Seal Cove is a natural historic site, but appears mostly deserted except for a few Seal Cove Beach Smokeshed Cottages. This 19th Century herring capital is a must stop for anyone who treasures the beauty of rustic fishing villages and abandoned buildings. I could not get enough of this place! There is a lovely beach here but a heavy bank of fog set in on the day we visited (which just made it more intriguing to me).

High Seas

High Seas Convenience Store is located in the original Seal Cove school house, just up the hill from Seal Cove harbour. They offer a hot breakfast that is said to be one of the best on the island. Their fish & chips, and fried clams are also very popular.

Wilcox Natural Treasures Soap Shop

Wilcox Natural Treasures Soap Shop was a wee giftshop that Susan & I discovered when exploring Seal Cove. Everything in the shop is homemade by the owner Susan Wilcox from her lovely natural soaps & body products to heaps of other handmade items. It’s a hidden gem!

Harrington Cove

Go to sleep and wake up to the sound of waves at Harrington Cove Cottages. Susan and I realized we didn’t need to chase sunrises & sunsets when we stayed here. Instead, we each found an Adirondack chair on our water-view deck. We also accepted the challenge of no T.V. or Internet service to unplug & relax. So, if you are on vacay, and can detach from electronics… this just might be the perfect getaway for you. Just add wine!

Deep Cove

Another beach with stunning views can be found at Deep Cove. Descend a short, steep path from the parking area. Go at low tide to enjoy a wider sandy area. Many visitors say this is their favourite beach on the island. The water is brisk but refreshing, as it comes right from the ocean. It can be foggy here at times, but it just adds to the mystique. Know that it can be sunny & hot on the north end of the island, and foggy & cool at the south end simultaneously.

Southern Head

The southern end of Grand Manan Island is known for its dramatic cliffs. Southwest Head Lighthouse was built atop one of these precipitous cliffs, It has an elevation of 18 metres, and is better known as Gull Cliff. Thick fog frequents this area, and this automated light station greatly assists vessels navigating the area, particularly during humid summer months.

The Hay

There are several hiking trails accessible from the lighthouse. I enjoyed The Hay. The rock cliffs and coastline here are beyond spectacular, and the paths hug the coastline. I got a tad adventurous, and tried to go too far on the path less travelled, and found myself deep into heavily thorn rose bushes, and I returned with legs that were scratched, and bleeding badly. I persisted too long, as I thought the next captivating lookout would be just a few feet ahead, but it never came, and I had to double back through the same mess of thorny bushes. I found out later I could have taken a different inland path, that arrives at the cliffside point I was aiming for. So, if you find yourself on a path that starts to close in tight with rose bushes - turn around - there is a better way.

Flock of Sheep

The Upper and Lower Flock of Sheep is on my next visit list. This hike showcases some unusual geological features. Glaciers pushed large white granite boulders on top of black lava spires, and from the water, fishermen thought the boulders looked like a flock of sheep. The trail also follows along the coastline along the cliff edges and has extraordinary vistas.

Buoy Farm

Our hosts at SeaCliff Cottages are keen hikers, and by keen, I mean they made an ambitious mission to cover every single hike known on Grand Manan in a few short months. Les showed me a map posted in his home where he and Debbie have been charting their progress. These keeners invited Susan and I to join them on their early morning hike, to discover a lesser known Southern Head hike that ends at a Buoy Farm. It was an adventure over hill and dale, on rocky trails, forest trails, lots of mud, wet bogs, and ponds… but yes Les, it was worth it. It was worth the perils we traversed coming & going, except on the very last leg of the hike when Susan slipped, and fell breaking her wrist. It was handy that both Les & Debbie are First Aid Medics. Once back at the cottage, Les took good care of Susan, and she was set with a compression wrap to get back to the mainland, and to a hospital for a proper cast. She has a great story though.

Island Oddity

But back to the hike. What we were chasing deep in the secluded woods of Grand Manan, was something that has caught many hikers by surprise over the last 13+ years. In a remote destination clearing, there is a mysterious display of brightly-coloured buoys - hundreds of them - strung up and hanging amongst the trees. Registration numbers connecting each one to a fisherman are visible. There is a small cabin nearby, too. It is an island oddity. “It’s where old buoys come to die,” Les announced to me, tongue in cheek. “Or perhaps it’s where they are born,” he chuckled with his eyebrow raised.

Lost Buoys of Grand Manan

For years no one knew how or why these Lost Buoys of Grand Manan got here. However, after a hiker shared this unusual sighting a few years ago, a CBC News team tracked down the landowner, and discovered that he started putting buoys up whenever they washed up onshore. He also collected them while fishing and continued hanging them in the trees on his property. It is now a fun art installation at the end of an interesting hike, but you need a hiking guide, a good pair of hiking boots, and a walking stick to get there. But, it is worth it - even Susan says so.

Grand Manan Welcomes You!

Grand Manan welcomes you with open arms to its rugged, storm-beaten yet peaceful haven. It is the island that is too good to be true and there is no place like it. Let it share its unspoiled scenic vistas and hidden secrets. I guarantee it will capture your heart. Do visit, again, and again, and tell everyone, the Maritimes Maven sent you.

The Puffin Tour at Machias Seal Island

If seeing puffins close up is on your bucket list, book a half-day excursion to Machias Seal Island. Avid bird watchers, nature lovers, scientists, wildlife photographers, and filmmakers have been flocking to this wee mile-long island in the lower Bay of Fundy for almost 200 hundred years. Folks like me go, too, toting a little camera with a tiny lens, and a big sense of adventure because no other birding destination compares for close range puffin observation and photography. If you love puffins, The Puffin Tour at Machias Seal Island is a must do.

This post was sponsored by the Charlotte Coastal Region Tourism Association; however, all thoughts and opinions are my own. Follow Maritimes Maven on FaceBook, Instagram, Pinterest, LinkedIn, Threads & X. Subscribe to be the first to receive my latest articles. Share articles you love with your social media community so they, too, will discover, There’s No Place Like Home!