Saint John, New Brunswick
Saint John, New Brunswick
Art, culture, and history comes alive in Saint John, New Brunswick. It is home to many green spaces - charming parks & elegant public gardens, tree-lined streets, and one of the largest urban parks in North America. Victorian era architecture is everywhere and amazing public art is scattered throughout the city. There are museums & art galleries, day & night markets, quaint local boutiques & unique shops, fabulous restaurants & cafes, and a vibrant container village & gathering space with ongoing activities. You are going to love it here!
Victorian Stroll Walking Tour
The self-guided Victorian Stroll is one of my favourite walking tours in Saint John. It highlights the architectural resurgence that occurred after the great fire of 1877 that devastated over 1,600 buildings, leaving 13,000 homeless. At the time, determined wealthy ship owners, agents, and merchants commissioned architects from Saint John, Moncton, Halifax, Montreal, Toronto, and New York to rebuild their homes - much grander than the ones they had lost. Saint John became a beehive of activity with notable builders & craftsman working with fine materials like Honduran mahogany and Italian marble. Many of these very examples of period architecture still stand today and are showcased on the self-guided Victorian Stroll Walking Tour.
Self-Led Walking Tours
History & architecture buffs will surely appreciate the other self-led historic walking tours in uptown Saint John highlighting the early settlers and the early architecture. Look up, look way up and you will see some pretty cool features, and if you are in just the right place, you might discoverโฆ grotesques. These 1870โs carved stone head statues are captivating (decapitated too, one might say), and some are wellโฆ downright gruesome, but donโt we all love a little scare? For the best examples, go to Chubbโs Corner, where Prince William & Princess Streets meet. One legend is these 16 sandstone figures represent judges at the time who had a boy hanged for stealing a loaf of bread. Another says they were a revenge ploy by a stone carver whose bosses refused to pay him. Others say they are caricatures of prominent Saint Johners of the late 19th century. On 122 Prince William Street also find a stone carving depicting an animal spitting out money symbolizing wealth. So, if you get a feeling you are being watched when in uptown Saint John, keep your wits about you and look up - there are strange creatures all about, and it is all deliciously creepy.
Art in Public Places Walking Tour
If you are an art geek like me, look into the self-guided Art in Public Places Walking Tour. Follow the map and you will be treated to a different view of Saint John, viewing unique public art displays โ some tucked away in places you wouldnโt think to visit, others hiding right in plain sight. Do pop into the numerous galleries along the route, too. Wander around the cityโs most instagrammed alley on Grannan Lane to discover Cape Bretoner Allan Ryan, aka Uber5000 See Stories, 2019 masterpiece mural on Grannan Street. This approximately 7,000 square foot mural was inspired by what lives under the sea. Go โSeaโ it to believe it. Clรฉmentine, 2019 by French artist Dodo Ose is another outstanding mural in the city. Find it on the corner of Canterbury & Princess Streets. It was inspired by the Moonlight Bazaar event and the 50th anniversary of the moon landing. The woman depicted is discovering the first spaceship - which was named Clรฉmentine.
Art and Culture Vibe
Although steeped in history, being Canadaโs oldest incorporated city also has an undeniable, modern art and culture vibe. As you walk around you are often treated to live music and entertainment. Young and old gather here to take it in. There are plenty of places to sit and enjoy the fun, while you grab a bite to eat or enjoy a refreshing drink.
Ihtoli-maqahamok - The Gathering Space
Formerly known as the Market Square Boardwalk, this waterfront public space now called Ihtoli-maqahamok - The Gathering Space [ee-doe-lee MAH-qwah-HA-muck] is undergoing a revitalization that includes tidal steps at Market Slip leading down to the Bay of Fundy, a 360-degree stage surrounded by public space to take in live performances, and the installation of a winter outdoor skating surface that doubles as beautiful green space during the summer months, as well as four-season patio spaces, created by the installation of glass panels expanding each boardwalk restaurantsโ footprint.
Area 506 Vendor Village
Be sure to wander down to the Container Village. Area 506 Vendor Village is one amazing experience after another on the Saint John waterfront for residents, tourists, and cruise ship passengers alike. It is open from late spring to mid-fall each year. Enjoy a diverse collection of shop local retail shops, an amazing performance space, a waterfront container bar, food trucks, public art, and pop-up activities. Area 506 is all wrapped up in 60+ fabulously painted shipping containers, and it celebrates everything that is cool about this Port City.
Shopping in Saint John
Notable shops & boutiques that I enjoyed in Saint John were: Handworks Gallery (simply the best curated art & artisan shop I have ever seen), TUCK Studio (think grown-up kid-in-a-candy-store home decor), The Urban Shoe Myth (need I say more?!), and for clothing & accessories: Lordon (lovely, designer boutique), In-Pursuit (trendy, fun fashion - up to size 18, aka East Coastโs only mobile boutique), and Heartbreak Boutique (quirky, upbeat fashion vibe). I also had fun browsing: Good Fibrations (colourful dyed-fibres gift shop, and supply store), Loyalist City Coins & Books (small antique collectibles in addition to books & coins), Brass N Things (a 40-year old company that sells and specializes in vintage polished brass and copper), and Freak Lunchbox (think candy, candy, and more candy).
Saint John City Market
Saint John City Market is a National Historic Site. It is the oldest continuing farmerโs market in Canada, dating back to the 1870โs. It is all here: butchers, bakers and candle-stick makers. It has been described as the cityโs beating heart. Saint Johners go and you should, too. Plan to do lunch here. Open year round, Monday through Saturday and for a limited time on Thursday evenings for an Outdoor Night Market where tents & stalls are set up. I savoured an organic carrot-ginger soup with a homemade baguette and my friend Julie had Bibimbap, a tasty Korean dish. I have also enjoyed a few wine tasting experiences at Uncorked Tours. Put this on your must do list when here. Tell them the Maritimes Maven sent you! Owners, Gillian & Nathalie Nadeau will take good care of you. Uncorked has a cozy seating area inside and tables set up outdoors during warmer months. Eat, drink & be merry (and drink responsibly of course). Uncorked also offers private bookings of up to 20 guests and does a fascinating small-group, private walking tour in uptown Saint John.
Green Spaces in Urban Places
Wander the peaceful Old Loyalist Burial Grounds to find headstones of the earliest settlers, dating back to 1784. Beautiful hydrangea and rose bushes also adorn this cemetery. Sit a spell in Kings Square by the fountain and old-fashioned bandstand to enjoy your morning coffee, or stroll tree-lined Queen Square surrounded by stately Victorian homes. There are so many lovely green spaces to find in Saint John. FYI - Queen Square also becomes an open air farmers market every Sunday from Mother's Day to mid-October - rain or shine.
Public Gardens
Enjoy a saunter through the Public Gardens, lovingly maintained by the Saint John Horticultural Association. This carefully manicured garden draws many photographers capturing engagement, graduation, and wedding photos. It is the perfect backdrop for these special occasions or even an impromptu picnic. There are benches throughout - always one in the shade. This is a nice serene spot.
Rainbow Park
I discovered the Rainbow Park volunteer community garden while out exploring the south end one day and beside it, was the inclusive Rainbow Playground and Splash Pad. It boasts accessible double-wide ramps, a roller slide and even a quiet zone for children with autism. What a great community area.
Rockwood Park
Rockwood Park is the crown jewel of Saint Johnโs green spaces in urban places. It was created by the same architects that designed Central Park in New York City and it is one of the largest urban parks in North America. Endless adventure awaits you. There is no shortage of things to do here like: hiking, geocaching, jogging, walking, biking, rock climbing, cave exploring, horseback riding, swimming, waterfall chasing, wildlife watching, bird watching, golfing, fishing, kayaking, canoeing, swimming, picnicking or simply sitting and enjoying nature. Enjoy the unspoiled charm of Rockwood Park.
Lilyโs Lakeside Dining
Lilyโs Lakeside Casual Dining is located in the Lily Lake Pavilion in Rockwood Park. This is a delightful place to lunch with a stunning lakeside view on the patio. The Maritime Seafood Salad and the Paradise Salad with scallops both are divine. Add a homemade biscuit and share a delectable dessert. Lilyโs is operated by a registered charity and 100% of the profits generated go right back into maintaining this public pavilion as well as community programs for Rockwood Park. There are so many good reasons to eat here.
Irving Nature Park
The Irving Nature Park is a 600 acre park located on Saint Johnโs west side. It offers beautiful views of the Fundy coastline and is a popular destination among locals & visitors to enjoy the outdoors, with groomed trails, and a gravel road for walking, hiking, and biking. It features accessible lookouts, barbecues, picnic spots, and washrooms. Just outside the main entrance find a childrenโs forest, playground, and life-size mazes.
The Reversing Falls
The Reversing Falls Rapids is the worldโs greatest example of a tidal impact upon a river. Twice a day 100 billion tons of water, a volume equal to all the worldโs rivers - enters and exits the Bay of Fundy. At low tide the river empties into the bay causing a series of rapids and whirlpools. As tides rise they slow the river current for a brief period called slack tide. This condition lasts for 20 minutes and is the only time vessels can safely pass through the gorge. The Bayโs tides continue to rise, gradually reversing the flow of the river: rapids form again, peaking at high tide. Water levels rise as much as 9 metres (28 feet) in a tidal cycle.
First Nations Storytellers Tour at Place Fort La Tour
I highly recommend everyone experience the First Nations Storytellers at Place Fort La Tour. Dave Smith has a gifted ability to bring you along on his incredible storytelling walk as he reclaims a culture & history that was taken from him as a small boy. He is also an impressive steward of nature researching regenerative ecology. He has much to teach us all. He generously shares his indigenous understandings with deep humanity. It was an absolute honour to be in his presence and hear his journey. I know everyone that meets him will be touched by his words. A mural depicting the history of the Wolastoqiyik community who lived on the Saint John River for nearly 12,000 years has been erected near Place Fort la Tour. It was created by artist Geoff Slater (from St. Andrews), and Suan Sacobie & Gina Brooks (from St. Maryโs First Nation).
Pomodori Pizzeria & Picaroons General Store
There is no shortage of great places in Saint John to grab some good eats & drinks. Pomodori Pizzeria & Picaroons General Store certainly make a dynamnic duo for enjoying a taste of local craft brews and wood-fired fresh tasty toppings pizza awesomeness! The outdoor seasonal patio is a fun spot to enjoy the vibrant atmosphere of uptown.
Saint John Ale House
The Saint John Ale House is another popular spot that is a quintessential gastropub. Enjoy some delicious bays, fields, and forests-to-kitchen food from this progressive pub. Share some appetizers (donโt miss the chicken fries) and enjoy their extensive selection of local New Brunswick craft beer on tap.
East Coast Bistro
If traditional French cuisine and a more relaxed ambiance is your thing, I highly recommend East Coast Bistro. Seasonal Maritime ingredients, are their specialty. I must say I loved my cocktail from my head to moji-toes and the steak frites are very flavourful. The Peach Almond Tart with ice cream & fruit is also delish!
Italian By Night
Italian By Night brings Italy to Saint John. Authentic Old World Italian is served in this urban modern industrial setting. Cocktails like the Sorrento Sparkle & Italian Sangria Prosecco are delightful. I was spouting Italian with my first sipโฆ โBellisimo, Delicioso, Exquisitoโฆโ I love sharing an app here and the stone-baked Margherita pizza. Then leave room for the scrumptious Italian desserts like the pavlova and the tiramisu. Just check out the attention to detail in IBNโs presentation. Put this on your must dine list.
Chipman Hill Suites
Chipman Hill Suites is my go to accommodation in Saint John. This group of historic buildings have been lovingly restored honouring their Victorian character & charm while also ensuring all the modern amenities & comfort you desire. All rooms have a private bathroom and a fully equipped kitchenette (some even have a full kitchen). Walkability is as good as it gets. All Chipman Hill Suites are close to restaurants, shops, entertainment, and tourist attractions. This is the place to stay if you want to be uptown. Book it once and you will be returning time after time. The building showcased has two 1870โs original fresco paintings in the foyer. To book your stay, click on the Chipman Hill Suites logo below to link directly to their website. Tell them the Maritimes Maven sent you. Enjoy your stay here.
This post was sponsored by Discover Saint John, Envision Saint John, Tourism NB & Chipman Hill Suites; however, all thoughts and opinions are my own. Follow Maritimes Maven on FaceBook, Instagram, Pinterest, LinkedIn & Threads. Subscribe to be the first to receive my latest articles. Share articles you love with your social media community so they, too, will discover, Thereโs No Place Like Home!